It’s Peel Season! Chemical Peel Basics
It's Peel Season: Chemical Peel Basics
Chemical peels are one of the most effective ways to achieve radiant skin and treat a variety of skin conditions. Chemical peels use acids to exfoliate the skin—mainly AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids), and PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids)—to gently dissolve dead skin cells and the bonds between skin cells to unclog pores, and stimulate skin cell turnover. Each of these acids works differently, targeting specific skin needs.
Let’s break them down:
AHA: Alpha Hydroxy Acids
AHAs are water-soluble acids (meaning they break down and are deactivated by water) derived from fruit, milk, or sugar. They work on the surface layer of the skin, helping to smooth texture, fade discoloration, and refine fine lines.
Popular AHAs include:
Glycolic Acid – The most widely used AHA, has a small molecule size, allowing it to penetrate deeply into the skin layers. It helps to stimulate collagen and brighten dull skin.
Lactic Acid – A gentle, hydrating acid ideal for dry, aging, or sensitive skin. It exfoliates while helping maintain moisture and causes a tightening feeling.
Mandelic Acid – Larger in size than Lactic acid or Glycolic Acid which means it penetrates the skin slower, making it suitable for redness-prone or acne-prone skin.
Citric Acid – Adds antioxidant benefits while brightening uneven skin tone.
BHA: Beta Hydroxy Acid
BHAs are oil-soluble, meaning they can penetrate deeper into the pores and clears sebum and dead skin cells in the pores, making them ideal for oily or acne-prone skin.
The key BHA:
Salicylic Acid – The hero for congested or acne-prone skin. It helps clear blackheads, reduce inflammation, and to clarify pores without over-drying.
BHAs work below the surface to remove buildup inside the pores and calm irritation, leading to clearer, smoother skin.
PHA: Polyhydroxy Acids
PHAs are the new generation of exfoliating acids—offering the benefits of AHAs but with extra hydration and minimal irritation. Also known as the "party peel" and has no to minimal downtime. They have larger molecular structures, which means they penetrate the skin more slowly and gently.
Common PHAs include:
Gluconolactone – The most common PHA, Offers mild exfoliation while attracting moisture to the skin. It also provides antioxidant protection.
Lactobionic Acid – Known for its strong humectant properties, helping to draw moisture, plump and smooth the skin.
PHAs are perfect for sensitive, dry, or mature skin, or anyone new to chemical peels who wants visible results with less downtime.
Combining AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs
Many modern chemical peels blend these acids for a customized effect—balancing exfoliation, hydration, and clarity. For example, combining glycolic acid (AHA) and salicylic acid (BHA) targets both surface dullness and clogged pores, while adding PHA enhances moisture and comfort.
However, I NEVER recommend trying to combine acids yourself. The right combination and strength should always be chosen by a licensed skincare professional (like a licensed esthetician, nurse practitioner, or dermatologist) based on your unique skin type and goals.
The Takeaway
Whether you’re dealing with acne, uneven tone, or dullness, AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs each bring something special to your skin.
Healthy skin begins with the right peel—and the right care after your peel. Book with me at Vision of Tomorrow in Larchmont, NY